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| I've recently purchased the camera and I've been looking for a good filter for DSOs. I've seen some mixed reviews of the IDAS GNB online and I'm wondering what the experience has been. Should be the ideal filter for this camera. So far I've tested with an Optolong lEnhance and a small refractor (Askar FMA180) with pretty good results but bad halos on some stars. Will be testing with an lPro and lUltimate. I'm in Bortle 8 most of the time so pretty bad light pollution. |
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I can recommend the Antlia dual Ha/Oiii (~5nm) + Antlia Edge Sii (~5nm). I image from the city with those 2 with pretty decent results. I have used Optolong in the past but they all suffer from bad halos... |
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I also use the L-Enhance with the 585, but I also suffer from halos. I have the L-Extreme too but don’t use it with the 585 because the camera is non-cooled. The narrower pass allows for longer exposures to gather more signal on the target, but it also integrates more thermal noise on the 585. This creates kind of a trade off where you gather both signal and noise from the exposure and risk having the dimmer sections of the target get swamped by the thermal noise. I found that at around 20C camera temp, 5 min is the max the L-Enhance/585 can handle before the thermal noise starts to take over the dimmer targets. At least with the L-Enhance you get Hb passed in the GB pixels. Helps boost the signal you capture per exposure. Thermal noise might not be a big deal if you’re in somewhere with cold ambient temperatures however. |
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Thanks. Makes sense about the limits on the lEnhance. I don't get noticeable halos with my 294; not sure why we get them on the 585. Will post results with the lUltimate. Still thinking about a filter that opens up the NIR bands of this camera. There are some good results posted with the IDAS GNB. |
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Hughes Thompson: Maybee the "halo" is just the fact that your setup may be oversampled due to the 585's smaller pixels. |
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| The scope is an Askar FMA180 so it's actually undersampled. It's a bit less undersampled with the 585 than my 294. But the halos may have more to do with the scope than the camera. |
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I got the L-Pro | L-Extreme | L-Ultimate Pro shows some halos, Extreme as the name implies has terrible halos, other than that it's a great filter. After I saw comparisons with the Ultimate and how little halos are showing I bought it and gotta say it's a great filter. The stars are tight, the signal even better and unless you have a really bright star, there are no halos at all. Surely there are other really good 3nm narrowband filters, I can only speak for the Optolong and can recommend from my personal experience. My latest picture for reference, no halos at all. L-Ultimate A older picture with lots of halos L-Extreme |
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Hi ASI585 enjoyers! Just bought mine a few days ago  What are the best settings for Deep Sky Objects from your experience?  |
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| Long exposures or short exposure? |
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andrea tasselli: The longer the better, but I use Star Adevnturer 2i, so I think I wont be able to do too long of an exposure I usually do 15sec, but if mount permits would love to try 30-60sec |
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| 15s is in the "short" category and 60s in the "long" category. For the former I'd recommend gain=252 and offset the minimum you can get away with. For the latter i'd use gain=50 and offset=20. |
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andrea tasselli: Got it! I will try it out and let you know how it went! |
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I've been testing the 585 with different scopes and filters an I've posted a couple of images. I tried the IDAS GNB and got terrible results with very bad halos. I ended up returning the filter and I'm wondering how advantage of the NIR sensitivity of this camera without getting halos. I got the best results with the Optolong lUltimate filter, see below:  Gamma Cygni Nebula IC1318  Dumbbell Nebula M27 |
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Hughes Thompson: Wow that looks amazing!! Keep me up with those filters if you find any good ones! |
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Hi 585 gang, I have a question about guiding. First of all, I barely know how it works. I know you plug your guide camera into the mount and it guides. How? Idk I guess software But my question is; Can I use my asi 585 as a main camera and a guide camera? At the same time? Does it work that way? Plz explain how all of it works |
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| To answer your first question: no, you can't. You either use a guidescope or an OAG and a separate camera. So, it doesn't work that way. You need a program, let's say PHD2, to do the guiding and normally it sends the commands to the mount but if the mount isn't connected to some kind of computer where the guiding program runs then you'd need to connect the guider ST-4 output to the the mount ST-4 input via, you guessed right, an ST-4 cable. |
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andrea tasselli: If I'm using Star Adventurer 2i, is it really worth it? Will buying a guide camera really improve the result? If I use under 300mm FL |
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| It depends on the tracking accuracy and how good is your polar alignment (to minimize drift). Given your image scale probably just stick with the longest exposure that doesn't show trailing in RA and see how it goes. If it is around 60s or better you are all good. |
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If you own a refractor that is not super well corrected between 400nm and 700nm you should try something like a CLS-CCD which starts at 425ish and cuts at 685ish If you own a reflector and you trust the glass element (corrector) with your life then it should be no problem This little chip has a very high sensitivity on IR and still some on the UV spectre For my IMX585 cooled camera I chose Antlia Triband as it starts at ~425nm but still it is considerably agressive. A CLS-CCD should give decent results if you can deal with unbalanced colors in post processing |
