Your system ( I have the E160 and E130) , if im not wrong (in case I'm wrong forget about this message) , has parabolic mirrors. these systems are not very suitable to be managed at the level of tilt and focal distance if the optical axes are not mechanically aligned (see RC). All the adjustments you make are solved in a mere translation of the problems along the center of the optical axis.
I just wanted to have my say .. unfortunately these are information that in the mists of time have been lost with the generations of astrophotographers who have abandoned this beautiful passion voluntarily or not. This means that each of us cyclically faces the same problems and no trace remains.
Sorry for the intrusion, I'm going back to my cave.
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Your system ( I have the E160 and E130) , if im not wrong (in case I'm wrong forget about this message) , has parabolic mirrors. these systems are not very suitable to be managed at the level of tilt and focal distance if the optical axes are not mechanically aligned (see RC). All the adjustments you make are solved in a mere translation of the problems along the center of the optical axis.
I just wanted to have my say .. unfortunately these are information that in the mists of time have been lost with the generations of astrophotographers who have abandoned this beautiful passion voluntarily or not. This means that each of us cyclically faces the same problems and no trace remains.
Sorry for the intrusion, I'm going back to my cave.
These Epsilon telescopes use Hyperbolic mirrors, which I think is what you meant to say. 
Nonetheless -- hyperbolic mirror systems are extremely sensitive to proper optical alignment. As you said.
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Daniel Carter:
Since I will ultimately be purchasing a full frame camera in the next year or so (which means new EFW and such) is there a difference between going with QHY or ZWO (QHY600 vs ASI6200)? I am currently on the ZWO train and I've been happy with my results. So far I havent seen any compelling arguments to switch to QHY over ZWO.
Thanks!
The QHY600PH-M uses the industrial version of the sensor and has multiple read out modes. The ASI6200 uses the commercial version of the sensor and operates in high gain mode only.
The QHY600 uses 17.5mm backspacing in the normal version, and they sell a version that only uses 12.5mm as well. The ASI6200 uses 17.5mm or 12.5mm with the stock tilt plate removed.
Personally, I had the 6200 and nothing but major tilt problems with the camera. My QHY was much flatter and more orthogonal but on the fast scope you'll still need to make small adjustments.
What I can say is, the Pegasus Astro wheel is better than both QHY and ZWO. Oddly enough, changing out the QHY wheel for the Pegasus resulted in my system starting off very close to squared in Hocus Focus and I only made minor tweaks to get it fully dialed in.
So my recommendation is QHY 600 plus the Pegasus Astro wheel and Octopi.
Hi Bill, out of curiosity, does the proprietary cable from the QHY camera to USB Filterwheel work with the Indigo FW? Or would I need to hook up a separate USB cable from the Indigo FW straight to my powerbox/mini-pc? I suspect it's the latter...
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Sorry to broken your ideas about ...
LocalField is an average focus, like all the system running in this way. This kind of focus is useful when you want to make field flat as more as possible loosing focus precision. If you need an offset this means you have something not working fine in your system, defeact on primary mirror ... miscollimation .. tilt .. focuser sag/slippage or backfocus wrong distance.
Robostar works on a spot, you will get the best HFD possible.
Hi Leo! It's nice to see you here.
In this case, a focus offset is used when a telescope is not able to perfectly correct the field for the large sensor size.
While the e160ed is a wonderful scope, it cannot seem to produce PERFECTLY round stars to the corners. They are very very good, but still have a very slight non-round shape. The focus offset is used to "hide" this star shape.
Local field does not work to do this, as the problem only in the extreme corners. Robostar is the only way to achieve this goal accurately and precisely. It is a wonderful tool that gives excellent results every time, and allows you to tweak the focus to improve the extreme corners. In this case, a simple offset of 10 microns makes a nice improvement. Robostar is the only tool that can deliver this kind of precision.
Please do not go back into a cave. I really appreciate you taking the time to participate and share your knowledge. I LOVE voyager!!!
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+1 with Chris : do not go too far away !!!! Happy to learn always something new. Yeahhh, we are Voyager addict.
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Daniel Carter:
So it looks like the popular choices for stock focuser replacements would be either the Optec LEO or the Moonlite 2.5" Newtonian focuser. Moonlite makes flanges for the 130, 160 and 180 Epsilons. I wonder if I could get one for the MT-160??? Sorry...squirrel...
Has anyone used the Moonlite Focuser on their Epsilons? From everything I read it sounded like Optec was the more solid choice but I've always had good luck with the Moonlite focusers on refractors (I've used both the Nitecrawler and the 2.5" refractor focuser).
Don't get me wrong - I'm not second guessing the Optec at all - just curious as to options for anyone else out there who may want to change out their stock focuser.
I would not put one of those Moonlite Crayfords on any telescope dude, no disrespect to Ron but they are bad.
While we have our disagreements about the 2.5" Moonlite (I like mine although its not the newt version), I would say its a hard no for an Epsilon. The step size is too big to work with a scope this fast and you would have to replace the saddle (for the E-130 & E-160, maybe not for the E-180) which will take a big bite out of the price advantage of a Moonlite.
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Daniel Carter:
So it looks like the popular choices for stock focuser replacements would be either the Optec LEO or the Moonlite 2.5" Newtonian focuser. Moonlite makes flanges for the 130, 160 and 180 Epsilons. I wonder if I could get one for the MT-160??? Sorry...squirrel...
Has anyone used the Moonlite Focuser on their Epsilons? From everything I read it sounded like Optec was the more solid choice but I've always had good luck with the Moonlite focusers on refractors (I've used both the Nitecrawler and the 2.5" refractor focuser).
Don't get me wrong - I'm not second guessing the Optec at all - just curious as to options for anyone else out there who may want to change out their stock focuser.
I would not put one of those Moonlite Crayfords on any telescope dude, no disrespect to Ron but they are bad.
While we have our disagreements about the 2.5" Moonlite (I like mine although its not the newt version), I would say its a hard no for an Epsilon. The step size is too big to work with a scope this fast and you would have to replace the saddle (for the E-130 & E-160, maybe not for the E-180) which will take a big bite out of the price advantage of a Moonlite.
I was referring to the Newt version only. I should have clarified that.
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Hi Bill, out of curiosity, does the proprietary cable from the QHY camera to USB Filterwheel work with the Indigo FW? Or would I need to hook up a separate USB cable from the Indigo FW straight to my powerbox/mini-pc? I suspect it's the latter..
USB is needed. That cable only works with the QHY wheel.
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For anyone else considering the Pegasus Astro Indigo Filter Wheel - this thing is a beast! I am extremely impressed with how it is built. Now the waiting game is back on waiting for the Octopi and Optec LEO.
I've been using the Astronomik MaxFR filters for my APS-C cam and I have been impressed with them so I think I will order the 50mm version for my full frame setup.
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Daniel Carter:
For anyone else considering the Pegasus Astro Indigo Filter Wheel - this thing is a beast! I am extremely impressed with how it is built. Now the waiting game is back on waiting for the Octopi and Optec LEO.
I've been using the Astronomik MaxFR filters for my APS-C cam and I have been impressed with them so I think I will order the 50mm version for my full frame setup.
Yeah, I am not surprised to read that you are happy with the Indigo ! I am too planning to get the 36mm version when it is rolled out.
To keep my OAG, I will use the Octopi along with the Leo > everything will fit within the recommended (and must to have) back focus.
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I was looking at the 6nm MaxFR filters (good down to f/2.2) and I saw something that caught my eye. I image in a borderline Bortle 4/5 zone and they said that you could use their CLS-CCD filter as a Luminance filter and it would result in better images from the reduction in light pollution. Here is their verbage:
If your observing site suffers from light pollution you should try to use our CLS-CCD as a replacement for the Luminance filter. The transmission curve of the CLS-CCD will give you approximately the same amount of energy in all three colour channels while blocking nearly all unwanted artificial light pollution. Customers who replaced the Lx filter with the CLS-CCD are amazed by the increased quality of their data. This small change gives you the opportunity to take much deeper images from your current observing site.
Has anyone tried that?
I am currently using their L2 Luminance filter which is designed for refractors and that are flattened or reduced. Their L1 is for systems that are completely free of chromatic aberration (which is a no for me since I will use this with refractors that don't have Takahashi on the side..lol). Their L3 is for refractors with "less than perfect" color correction or if you use their new Deep-Sky RGB filters. I currently have the 36mm Deep Sky RGB filters but I didn't use their L3 luminance filter and opted for the L2.
I'm tempted to try their CLS-CCD with this setup. I've used the CLS-CCD as a clip in filter for my Sony A7 which is full spectrum modified and I've taken some nice Milky Way photos with it.
I'm on the fence between that and the L3 since they claim it pairs well with the Deep Sky RGB set and helps reduce blueish halos around stars. I've had nice results with the L2 with my current setup so I hate to mess with what I've had success with.
Thoughts on this?
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I use the L2 and have had no problems or reasons that would make me want to change it up.
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Question on Primary Mirror Collimation Adjustment
I am doing my first collimation of the e160ED. I have the cross hairs pretty well centered on the secondary mirror mark and the reflection of the collimating eyepiece, but the primary black circle marker is a bit off so need to adjust the primary.
In the Optical Alignment section of the manual on page 23, Collimating the Primary, it states, “First, loosen the primary mirror collimating screws (3) on the side of the bottom ring.” Which screws are these? The ones labeled A, B, and C in Figure C-14 or the three grub screws opposite A, B, and C on the side of the bottom ring that apparently push against the edge of the primary mirror or primary mirror cell?
Should these grub screws be slightly loose when adjusting the push-pull screws labeled A, B, and C, or should they not be touched when making the primary mirror tilt adjustments?
It seems if the side grub screws are too tight it might “pinch” the primary?
Thanks for any help.
Bob Fugate
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Question on Primary Mirror Collimation Adjustment
I am doing my first collimation of the e160ED. I have the cross hairs pretty well centered on the secondary mirror mark and the reflection of the collimating eyepiece, but the primary black circle marker is a bit off so need to adjust the primary.
In the Optical Alignment section of the manual on page 23, Collimating the Primary, it states, “First, loosen the primary mirror collimating screws (3) on the side of the bottom ring.” Which screws are these? The ones labeled A, B, and C in Figure C-14 or the three grub screws opposite A, B, and C on the side of the bottom ring that apparently push against the edge of the primary mirror or primary mirror cell?
Should these grub screws be slightly loose when adjusting the push-pull screws labeled A, B, and C, or should they not be touched when making the primary mirror tilt adjustments?
It seems if the side grub screws are too tight it might “pinch” the primary?
Thanks for any help.
Bob Fugate
If you need to move the primary circle that is done with secondary adjustments. If you need to move the reflection of the collimating eyepiece that is done with the primary.
Here's a diagram from AndySea on CN: Drawing1-Layout3-8.pdf |
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Daniel Carter:
For anyone else considering the Pegasus Astro Indigo Filter Wheel - this thing is a beast! I am extremely impressed with how it is built. Now the waiting game is back on waiting for the Octopi and Optec LEO.
I've been using the Astronomik MaxFR filters for my APS-C cam and I have been impressed with them so I think I will order the 50mm version for my full frame setup.
They have excellent printable filter masks for the Indigo wheel: 50mm_Mask.stl |
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@Bill Long
Are those masks an improvement over the ones that shipped with the Indigo?
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Daniel Carter:
@Bill Long
Are those masks an improvement over the ones that shipped with the Indigo?
Mine only shipped with donut style holders. Maybe they are shipping with masks now.
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Daniel Carter:
@Bill Long
Are those masks an improvement over the ones that shipped with the Indigo?
Mine only shipped with donut style holders. Maybe they are shipping with masks now.
Ill have to open it and check. I opened the main package and held it and looked it over but i didnt inspect the small stuff.
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Daniel Carter:
Daniel Carter:
@Bill Long
Are those masks an improvement over the ones that shipped with the Indigo?
Mine only shipped with donut style holders. Maybe they are shipping with masks now.
Ill have to open it and check. I opend the main package and geld it and looked it over but i didnt inspect the small stuff.
Possible, although 7 of these would be hard to miss. ;)
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Daniel Carter:
Daniel Carter:
@Bill Long
Are those masks an improvement over the ones that shipped with the Indigo?
Mine only shipped with donut style holders. Maybe they are shipping with masks now.
Ill have to open it and check. I opend the main package and geld it and looked it over but i didnt inspect the small stuff.
Possible, although 7 of these would be hard to miss. ;)
I think they only had donut style in the box. I'll look tomorrow (I forgot it at work).
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Hi guys. I often read you mentioned opitec? What does it mean? It is the Optec Leo focuser?
cheers
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Kaptas Attila:
Hi guys. I often read you mentioned opitec? What does it mean? It is the Optec Leo focuser?
cheers
Hi Attila,
Yes, it is : Optec Leo Focuser !
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I am gonna get mine inSaptember. Still ordered!
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Kaptas Attila:
I am gonna get mine inSaptember. Still ordered!
My new camera will be here Tuesday and the filters should be here Wednesday or Thursday. The Ondigo arrived yesterday and I should see the OAG soon too. Now I get to hurry up and wait for Optec.
As an aside, I was talking to Ron today and he reconsidering the Litecrawler for our Epsilons when he makes the next batch. He is going to try and make the drawtube shorter since they are 1/4 of an inch too tall.
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0.00
11.02
0.90
20.43
4.88
0.90
3.58
1.51
1.51
