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Got it, will test as soon as I get it.
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I designed rings and dovetail for this lens see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5205883 for 3d files.
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I use the Astrodynium ring set and the ZWO camera lens adapter and it works straight out of the box. Its an awesome set up and so forgiving to use combined with a Bahtanov mask. The William optics clean masks are really good (not cheap)
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John O'Mahony:
I use the Astrodynium ring set and the ZWO camera lens adapter and it works straight out of the box. Its an awesome set up and so forgiving to use combined with a Bahtanov mask. The William optics clean masks are really good (not cheap)
How does your imaging train "look"?
If you use the ZWO lens adapter - I assume you have the Nikon version of the Samyang?
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For me, the William Optics "Cat Ring" and "Cat Series Saddle Handle Bar" worked the best for my set up. You don't have access to aperture but that's okay for me. The ring spacer and EAF mount are 3D printed. Note that I have the First Light Optics M48 adapter and am using a ZWO filter wheel and ASI-1600MM in these photos when looking at the spacing below.
https://williamoptics.com/products/accessories/cat-mounting-ring-cat-series-saddle-handle-bar
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-samyang-lens-to-m48-adapter.html
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Christian Bennich:
Hey,
I have found myself a cheap Samyang 135mm f/2 lense.
Now I just need the rest of the “rig”.
I have my EQ6-R Pro mount and ZWO 2600MM camera.
What’s the best options for attaching lense etc. to my mount and what do you all do for Auto focusing?
Any advice are welcome 🤪
Hi. I use ZWO adaptors on my 135mm Samyang. they have everything you need to attach and also use filter draw etc. good instructions on the gear also. i don't auto focus because i found very very little if any need to autofocus during sessions. the lens is stiff enough to stay and is reasonably temp resistant.
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Do you all have your own 3D printer - or do you use some service to have the spareparts printed?
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Norman Tajudin:
For me, the William Optics "Cat Ring" and "Cat Series Saddle Handle Bar" worked the best for my set up. You don't have access to aperture but that's okay for me. The ring spacer and EAF mount are 3D printed. Note that I have the First Light Optics M48 adapter and am using a ZWO filter wheel and ASI-1600MM in these photos when looking at the spacing below.
https://williamoptics.com/products/accessories/cat-mounting-ring-cat-series-saddle-handle-bar
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-samyang-lens-to-m48-adapter.html
Your imagetrain is the same as the one I am
trying to build. But you have 50mm backfocus in your setup, should it not be 44 for the Canon version or 46.5 for the Nikon version of the Samyang or is your version a different one?
The spacer ring - where could I find the print file for something like that?
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Christian Bennich:
Hey,
I have found myself a cheap Samyang 135mm f/2 lense.
Now I just need the rest of the “rig”.
I have my EQ6-R Pro mount and ZWO 2600MM camera.
What’s the best options for attaching lense etc. to my mount and what do you all do for Auto focusing?
Any advice are welcome 🤪
Mate I am super happy with my Astrodymium 3D printed rings and support for accessories like the focuser , guiding scope and the controller … arrived in Australia very fast and consistent built quality . ( I have 2 of them to shoot on a double system )
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Looks like everyone has dumped all the relevant equipment in this thread so no need to add on to that.
As for tilt/backfocus adjustment here are some things to consider:
- You want to try and use this at F/2. I mean, you paid for the aperture and focal ratio so you should not accept anything less than that.
- Adjusting tilt/backfocus at F/2 is no joke. If you sneeze on your lens it will throw it out of whack. Shims might even be too crude because you really need the fine adjustment offered by some sort of system with screws in them. Think like the GTU, or even just a zwo tilt plate that you can screw in and out.
- Important info: The lens can and will lie to you. If you are slightly on one or the other side of focus - even just a tiny bit - it can be misleading as to what you need to do to adjust your curvature. I am sure you all know of the backfocus chart that tells you what to do based on the star shapes in the corner. That is what I am talking about. If you are slightly out of focus, the stars might tell you to add more distance to the camera when you might really have to decrease the distance. Find perfect focus after each adjustment you make and your life will be a lot easier.
Not all lenses are created equal. If you find the stars too soft at F/2, I recommend most of your data at F/2 and then doing stars at F/4. That is what I did for this:
Veil of the Veil |
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Looks like everyone has dumped all the relevant equipment in this thread so no need to add on to that.
As for tilt/backfocus adjustment here are some things to consider:
- You want to try and use this at F/2. I mean, you paid for the aperture and focal ratio so you should not accept anything less than that.
- Adjusting tilt/backfocus at F/2 is no joke. If you sneeze on your lens it will throw it out of whack. Shims might even be too crude because you really need the fine adjustment offered by some sort of system with screws in them. Think like the GTU, or even just a zwo tilt plate that you can screw in and out.
- Important info: The lens can and will lie to you. If you are slightly on one or the other side of focus - even just a tiny bit - it can be misleading as to what you need to do to adjust your curvature. I am sure you all know of the backfocus chart that tells you what to do based on the star shapes in the corner. That is what I am talking about. If you are slightly out of focus, the stars might tell you to add more distance to the camera when you might really have to decrease the distance. Find perfect focus after each adjustment you make and your life will be a lot easier.
Not all lenses are created equal. If you find the stars too soft at F/2, I recommend most of your data at F/2 and then doing stars at F/4. That is what I did for this:
Veil of the Veil
That's exactly my goto method as well, albeit with the more forgiving 533 sensor. I think the trunk section of my test image is pretty good and I agree, I want to collect data at F/2 for narrowband at least. As long as the stars are looking good stepping down and can be removed without creating nasty artifacts that's ok by me.
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This little bad boy of a lens sounds like a fun challenge 🤪
I look forward to receive my gear and start playing with it.
My first task is 44mm backfocus.
Does it make sense to go for 43mm or 42mm and then use shims to get to the right result?
Leaving a few millieters could give room for fine adjustments in either direction.
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@SemiPro is dead on. Stepping the lens down is just reducing light gathering ability which is the main reason to use this lens. Nothing else gives you so much aperture in such a small, affordable package.
I’ve found with APS-C that stars need to be as close to perfect as possible to be fully removed. If not, bright stars will be left behind and removing them with clone stamp is tough.
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@SemiPro - I for one, don’t know about the charts you mention to adjust curvature.
If you have a link of sorts - that would be awesome.
I have been looking into the measurements that ASTAP can do - but have not come across charts like you mention.
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Christian Bennich:
@SemiPro - I for one, don’t know about the charts you mention to adjust curvature.
If you have a link of sorts - that would be awesome.
I have been looking into the measurements that ASTAP can do - but have not come across charts like you mention.
I think I posted a link to OPT where you can find the charts illustrating backfocus but I'll re-post it here: https://optcorp.com/blogs/deep-sky-imaging/how-to-set-the-correct-back-focus
If you scroll down a bit you can see how the star shapes indicate too far/close the sensor is.
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Christian Bennich:
@SemiPro - I for one, don’t know about the charts you mention to adjust curvature.
If you have a link of sorts - that would be awesome.
I have been looking into the measurements that ASTAP can do - but have not come across charts like you mention.
I think I posted a link to OPT where you can find the charts illustrating backfocus but I'll re-post it here: https://optcorp.com/blogs/deep-sky-imaging/how-to-set-the-correct-back-focus
If you scroll down a bit you can see how the star shapes indicate too far/close the sensor is.
Hahah, thx @Jan Erik V - I have been working my way through that article in between my sunbed and the pool on my vacation here. I guess I just need to keep reading 👍🤪
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Christian Bennich:
Christian Bennich:
@SemiPro - I for one, don’t know about the charts you mention to adjust curvature.
If you have a link of sorts - that would be awesome.
I have been looking into the measurements that ASTAP can do - but have not come across charts like you mention.
I think I posted a link to OPT where you can find the charts illustrating backfocus but I'll re-post it here: https://optcorp.com/blogs/deep-sky-imaging/how-to-set-the-correct-back-focus
If you scroll down a bit you can see how the star shapes indicate too far/close the sensor is.
Hahah, thx @Jan Erik V - I have been working my way through that article in between my sunbed and the pool on my vacation here. I guess I just need to keep reading 👍🤪
Lucky you, enjoy your vacation!
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All you guys with the nice Samyang lens, have you considered contributing to the Astrobin community Survey? We are still looking for people that want to put their Samyang to good use:
https://www.astrobin.com/groups/5818/astrobin-community-survey/
Michael
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Michael Ring:
All you guys with the nice Samyang lens, have you considered contributing to the Astrobin community Survey? We are still looking for people that want to put their Samyang to good use:
https://www.astrobin.com/groups/5818/astrobin-community-survey/
Michael
So absolutely - I volunteered initially. But only had a 1000mm focal length newt. Now I can help out as soon as I have the rig etc. up’n running 🤓🤓
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Michael Ring:
All you guys with the nice Samyang lens, have you considered contributing to the Astrobin community Survey? We are still looking for people that want to put their Samyang to good use:
https://www.astrobin.com/groups/5818/astrobin-community-survey/
Michael
I actually have. But for the last year, weather here has been atrocious (6 images or so finished), my Samyang is not in my permanent setup and I‘m in Bortle 6, rising. I‘m quite certain there isn‘t anything for me to contribute. Anyone in Bortle 3 and below will just fly by my SNR contribution within minutes even if I dedicate all my clear sky time.
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@Torben van Hees : Yes, you are right, Bortle 6 can be a little painful when it comes to integration time. I am in Bortle 4 and it hurts to see that I need roughly double the integration time than lucky guys like Brian who has Bortle 2 Skies.
Nevertheless, I have learned so much in the last months from our Mosaic guru and from the other guys on the project that I still think it was (and still is) worth the effort anyway.
@Christian Bennich : Glad to have you on board, currently the guys from south are contributing the biggest part, but I hope we can catch up now that the nights get longer.... (Actually I am just setting up, this night is supposed to be clear...)
Michael
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Michael Ring:
@Torben van Hees : Yes, you are right, Bortle 6 can be a little painful when it comes to integration time. I am in Bortle 4 and it hurts to see that I need roughly double the integration time than lucky guys like Brian who has Bortle 2 Skies.
Nevertheless, I have learned so much in the last months from our Mosaic guru and from the other guys on the project that I still think it was (and still is) worth the effort anyway.
@Christian Bennich : Glad to have you on board, currently the guys from south are contributing the biggest part, but I hope we can catch up now that the nights get longer.... (Actually I am just setting up, this night is supposed to be clear...)
Michael
Been in Italy the last weeks - very clear skies - no astro gear. But I have learned a ton of constellations I didn’t know and tried to do milkyway shots with my phone.
Not super successful but fun.
Heading back to Denmark tomorrow.
Back home, I am in bortle 4/5 skies - close to the sea though so my eastern sky is much darker than my western skies.
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@Michael Ring - where are you based?
I am 35 km south of Copenhagen, Denmark on the coast.
And in general - where are you all in the world?
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I am in Switzerland, just far away enough from the city of Bern so that my home has bortle 4 skies. But the mountains are close so I try to be on 1600m as often as I can where the Bortle 4 is scratching on the Bortle 3 mark.
Michael
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Michael Ring:
I am in Switzerland, just far away enough from the city of Bern so that my home has bortle 4 skies. But the mountains are close so I try to be on 1600m as often as I can where the Bortle 4 is scratching on the Bortle 3 mark.
Michael
NICE - I love Switzerland, spent a week hiking in Zermatt in early July.
Beautiful 🤩🤩
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2.11
0.00
1.20
1.43
1.91
0.00
7.67
4.36
2.71
3.94
