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Yesterday I've tried for my first time ever (!) using a robotic focuser with NINA and in fact my frst time I use such a device, period. I thought it should run pretty straightward like much else in NINA. So there I went, reached for the AF tab and started the autofocusing routine. The motor started rumbling on and turning ever faster and the focuser started going at increasing speed toward the topmost position. And kept turning even there. The horror and the despair. First time off and failed massively. All attempts to create a focusing curve were doomed to failure this out of focus and so NINA gave up in the end. I unplugged and focused manually for the remainder of the session, thankfully this could be still be done. Now the question is: what went wrong as I have no idea. For honesty sake I must admit that I might have messed up with the calibration step I run beforehand but it still doesn't explaining why the focuser shooted up so far out from the near focus position it was at. I'd loath the idea of repeating the experience, if you see what I mean. |
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| Did you run the Sesto Senso calibration routine first? It may be worth pressing the Reset button on the EAF and repeating the focuser calibration. Then check that you can move the focuser position with the manual controls within NINA, get to the approximate position for focus before running the auto focus process. |
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Ciao Andrea, difficult to say what happened. I wonder if you would like to share a screenshot of the NINA Options > Autofocus screen. Maybe there is some funny setting there causing this behavior. Running the Sestosenso calibration is a prerequisite, but I understand you completed this step. Are you using the Sestosenso v1? I'm asking because currently the v2 is on the market. |
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| It would be helpful for you to post some of the autofocus graphs from the failed runs. Autofocus is rarely a "plug and play" situation. It needs to be tuned to the specific image train. With graphs we can determine what needs to be adjusted in order for you to have successful and repeatable AF runs. |
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| Hello, before using the sesto senso in nina, it is mandatory to calibrate this one because otherwise in does not know this current position on the focuser. the calibration is done thanks to the primaluce lab software downloadable from the manufacturer's site or available on the USB key delivered from memory with the sesto v1. then connect the motor in nina. |
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Roger Nichol: I agree with the Roger's proposal. It's important to calibrate the Sesto Senso. After that, you could place the focuser in the middle of the run using the software (for me this represents about 20,000 steps), and perform manually a fairly precise focusing . If you want I can also share the AF settings I use in NINA. |
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Ciao Andrea, difficult to say what happened. I wonder if you would like to share a screenshot of the NINA Options > Autofocus screen. Maybe there is some funny setting there causing this behavior. Thank Mau. Here is what I got. Just the default settings, in the main. And it is the V1, not the V2.  |
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Reg Pratt: Unfortunately I haven't got any . |
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Jean-Michel Hirschi:Roger Nichol: Yes, I did but it looked weird as the lowest position wasn't zero (but much higher) as I recall. I might have screwed that one up. And yes, any tip is welcome. |
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| What version of NINA are you running? If you're running version 2 you can load previous runs using the drop down menu of the AF window in the imaging tab. |
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Andrea, with autofocus the defaults will normally not work, as the parameters have to be tailored to your configuration. For instance the step size may greatly differ depending on the focuser model in use (Sestosenso, or EAF), and on the mechanical connection to the focuser. This is an excellent NINA setup tutorial, I recommend you have a careful look at it. Following the instructions you will be able to define the step size and the initial number of steps in your configuration. Additionally you have to set correctly the backlash. It is advisable to use the Overshoot method. Lastly I would recommend to change the curve fitting to Hyperbolic. Just to have an idea, I send you here the settings on one of my scopes, but please do not copy paste them, rather follow the instructions in the video on how to size the main parameters. Hope this helps.  |
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| Echoing what Jean-Michel said above- NINA likes to have the current field relatively close to focus before it starts the routine (I use the Hocus Focus plug-in on NINA). I have figured out the step value that is close and always move the focuser there upon initialization in my sequence. But I am not using the Senso |
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So, I tried again tonight and the results were pretty much the same, only this time I'm sure I set up the sestosenso correctly and indeed it moved either way when used with its native app. Now, I've tried to nudge it a bit using the control panel (the > button) in NINA and it is there where it started moving out at blazing speed (before I stopped it for the equipment tab). Something is obviously quite wrong with the way NINA handles it but I'm at loss to understand what that is. Operating the sestosenso with its app I am able to focus pretty accurately with it so the basic functionality is working. Any idea? Thanks. |
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I cannot speak for N.I.N.A as I have only ever used SGPro with both my Senso and my Senso 2 1. Your AF Step size is far too large, remember you are using the Micro-Focuser shaft on the focuser, you need much smaller steps, on mine I have the steps set to 50 2. You need to have the focuser close to the focus position, because during the autofocus routine, it will push the focuser out by so many steps and then come in and past the focus position so that it can work out the best position for best focus based on HFR/HFD 3. Calibration of the Senso is critical in the Primaluce Software, and follow it properly, this will tell the Senso where position 0 is and where the maximum out position is. the correct process is to hit "Calibration", then with the focuser at position 0, hit "Zero", then choose the "Move Out" option, I never let my focuser reach fully out, as I know it is never going to have to go out that far. 4. Check for any option in N.I.N.A that may have "Reversed" the direction of the Senso 5. Are you using the PL ASCOM Driver versus any in built driver? Simon |
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Simon Todd: Hi Simon, 1&2. I wasn't even trying to get into the autofocusing routine. Just trying to nudge it out to judge how large the number of steps need to be in order to defocus the star. But it went all the way toward the outer position. My AF step size from the setup is 20 and judging from experimenting with it (ouside NINA) it needs to be at least 100 to see any signficant change in star size on my setup. 3. I'm not quite sure what you mean by "hitting Zero". There is no such button on my app. 4. Apparently there are none 5. I am using the ASCOM driver that came with the motorized focuser. There is no built in driver for SS in NINA. I am also using the latest ASCOM libraries. Thanks Andrea |
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Hi Andrea Based on the version I have which is the new P.L.A.Y software, I was not sure if the Senso1 was supported with P.L.A.Y this is what options I have: Hit Calibration:  Select "Telescope with external focuser"  Manually set your focuser to 0 by use of the focusing knob and hit the "Confirm ZERO Position" Hit "Start" to start the focuser moving out, when it gets close to the full travel of your focuser hit "stop"  You should then end up with this  |
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Hi Simon, Sadly PLAY doesn't work with SS v1. Andrea |
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I see a lot of good suggestions - here my 2pennies worth... 1. It is mandatory that you calibrate the AF before your first use. I own V2, and probably V1 is simliar...so manually move to the innermost position and set it to zero in the SW menu (it asks you) then make sure you know if you have to invert the movement to get out or not. Now you have to move electronically with your finger on the stop button out as much as you can - just before you reach the outermost position of the focus system, you must press stop. Now you have a large number on your display - this is the maximum number of steps the system can make with this particular focuser. From here onwards you can now search for your focus position - do not touch the focuser manually anymore, you loose the calibration! You must focus from now onwards electronically only. Hope this helps... CS Georg |
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andrea tasselli: I only have the v2 so I have to use Play, you should have "Focus Manager" installed for the V1, and the process is very similar |
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I have a v1 SS and have had a few years of experience with it. When it works, it works really well. When it doesn't, it will make you tear your hair out. I use mine on a Tak FSQ-85edx. After a couple years of use, I found that the setscrews in the aluminum coupler had worked loose. In fact the M3 setscrew on one side of the coupler stripped out after over-tightening. I was able to fix the issue by drilling/tapping an M4 setscrew into it, then applying blue Loctite to both setscrews to (hopefully) keep them from backing out again. I also found that the Tak's micro focuser shaft was loose. Since tightening this all up, I've had no problems, mechanically. My other issue has been with the stepper motor seemingly losing its mind after powering it down. It loses all it's settings and won't take new ones. My only recourse has been to re-install the firmware and recalibrate. It's happened so often that I made a wooden gage to quickly find the half-way location on the focuser during calibration. I've taken to leaving it supplied with 12v power at all times. That will do till I dismantle the obsy for the winter months. I recommend starting from scratch and reloading the firmware. It's actually pretty easy to do. After that, you need to tweak its settings to handle your specific load. My image train includes the OAG, filter wheel and camera. I figure that's plenty heavy, so my settings are as shown below. Without setting these, I've had the focuser take off at a pace that would rival a race horse. Re-calibrate the steps only after doing this. As you can see, I'm using software v2.1. The download from PL will include the files required for installing the firmware as well. As other's have stated, do not try to use PLAY. It's not for a SS v1. P.S. I use NINA and I could not be happier with the autofocus routine. Once you get the AF steps right and the backlash steps figured out, it just works. Every setup will be different but mine is set at 125 steps and Overshoot backlash IN/OUT is 75 & 0 (It's very important that overshoot only has steps in one direction, IN in my case)  |
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Jean-Michel Hirschi:Roger Nichol: Hi Jean-Michel, I am having similar challenges on finding the right setting in NINA for my Sesto Senso 2 in order to get acceptable HFD results. Would you mind to share your setting (screenshot)? Curious to see what initial offset steps value you use, as well as step size, backlash, etc.. Thanks in advance, Seba |
