Hello.
What technique and what tools do you use to calibrate the RH200?
Has anyone ever used the SCT Collimation using HOTECH Advanced CT Laser Collimator?
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Hello Jose,
My friend collimated my RH200 and more than 1 year later, it's still amazing, he used a few tools, some made by him and the Hotech Advanced CT collimation (although it's a very annoying tool). He also used a howie glatter for the focuser.
He took it apart to align the primary and the focuser and after aligned the corrector.
He has collimated 3 scopes 2 x Mk1 and his an AT and they are all pretty impressive in what he achieved, so much so one of the retailers in California asked him to colimate another one for them.
I personally look at the collimation with Al's collimation aid and the SkyX and the tilt I use the collimation option in the SkyX with the four corners on a loop, it's pretty helpful, happy to share more info or ask my friend to comment in this thread.
thanks,
ioan
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You can use Auto Focus in Nina, which is free, to check and adjust the tilt. You need to download and install the Hocus Focus plugin.
Peter
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Ioan Popa:
Hello Jose,
My friend collimated my RH200 and more than 1 year later, it's still amazing, he used a few tools, some made by him and the Hotech Advanced CT collimation (although it's a very annoying tool). He also used a howie glatter for the focuser.
He took it apart to align the primary and the focuser and after aligned the corrector.
He has collimated 3 scopes 2 x Mk1 and his an AT and they are all pretty impressive in what he achieved, so much so one of the retailers in California asked him to colimate another one for them.
I personally look at the collimation with Al's collimation aid and the SkyX and the tilt I use the collimation option in the SkyX with the four corners on a loop, it's pretty helpful, happy to share more info or ask my friend to comment in this thread.
thanks,
ioan
hi ioan.
Thanks for answering.
I've tried using the hotech, but I don't quite understand how to apply the general instructions to the RH200, as it is quite different from everything else.
If you can ask your friend to comment, I'm sure many other users will appreciate it as much as I do.
All the best.
José
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Peter Bresler:
You can use Auto Focus in Nina, which is free, to check and adjust the tilt. You need to download and install the Hocus Focus plugin.
Peter
Hello Peter.
I have tried using it, but it has not given me very good results.
Thanks for everything.
José
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What have you tried to shoot, what camera? Any posts here? What focuser do you have?
Peter
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Ioan's friend also collimated my scope. Honestly, I don't thinks its something the average person can do. It took him quite a while. At present my scope has a minor tilt problem, but I currently am not doing any wide field images.
Peter
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José Carlos Rodríguez:
Ioan Popa:
Hello Jose,
My friend collimated my RH200 and more than 1 year later, it's still amazing, he used a few tools, some made by him and the Hotech Advanced CT collimation (although it's a very annoying tool). He also used a howie glatter for the focuser.
He took it apart to align the primary and the focuser and after aligned the corrector.
He has collimated 3 scopes 2 x Mk1 and his an AT and they are all pretty impressive in what he achieved, so much so one of the retailers in California asked him to colimate another one for them.
I personally look at the collimation with Al's collimation aid and the SkyX and the tilt I use the collimation option in the SkyX with the four corners on a loop, it's pretty helpful, happy to share more info or ask my friend to comment in this thread.
thanks,
ioan
hi ioan.
Thanks for answering.
I've tried using the hotech, but I don't quite understand how to apply the general instructions to the RH200, as it is quite different from everything else.
If you can ask your friend to comment, I'm sure many other users will appreciate it as much as I do.
All the best.
José
Hey Jose, what focuser do you have, show us some photos, did you mess with the front plate? that the biggest issue, collimating the primary and tilt correction isn't hard but if the front corrector has been touched there's serious issues that come with that
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Ioan Popa:
José Carlos Rodríguez:
Ioan Popa:
Hello Jose,
My friend collimated my RH200 and more than 1 year later, it's still amazing, he used a few tools, some made by him and the Hotech Advanced CT collimation (although it's a very annoying tool). He also used a howie glatter for the focuser.
He took it apart to align the primary and the focuser and after aligned the corrector.
He has collimated 3 scopes 2 x Mk1 and his an AT and they are all pretty impressive in what he achieved, so much so one of the retailers in California asked him to colimate another one for them.
I personally look at the collimation with Al's collimation aid and the SkyX and the tilt I use the collimation option in the SkyX with the four corners on a loop, it's pretty helpful, happy to share more info or ask my friend to comment in this thread.
thanks,
ioan
hi ioan.
Thanks for answering.
I've tried using the hotech, but I don't quite understand how to apply the general instructions to the RH200, as it is quite different from everything else.
If you can ask your friend to comment, I'm sure many other users will appreciate it as much as I do.
All the best.
José
Hey Jose, what focuser do you have, show us some photos, did you mess with the front plate? that the biggest issue, collimating the primary and tilt Hello.
My focuser is a low profile Optec TCF-LEO. I also have a Pegasus Astro Falcom rotator next to the QHYCFW3L filter wheel and my QHY600 PH-M SBFL camera.
I haven't touched the faceplate, just the collimation and tilt screws.
I attach some photos of the equipment 
Este es el enfocador LEO:
Y este el rotador
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I also put a photo of M17 from 07-25.
As you can see there is nowhere to take it.
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José Carlos Rodríguez:
I also put a photo of M17 from 07-25.
As you can see there is nowhere to take it.
can I get a high res link via google drive, or something.
Few small tips, maybe you area already doing this.
1. Always have your camera align with the for corners of the tilt plate, on the qhy 600m the screw for the desiccant should be in the middle of the scope, pointing up or down.
2. Make sure all flanges are snug but not over tight, do that with the scope pointing down so gravity can fix some of the tilt naturally.
3. Center a star and use this collimation aid http://sweiller.free.fr/collimation.html to measure the collimation of the primary.
4. If your camera is screwed into the "tilt" adapter from QHY, make sure that's not tilted by point the scope down on the mount and centering the camera in that adapter.
If the collimation is okay in the center, check the rest of the frame if you have weird stars 1/3 of the way in and more importantly different parts of the image have different star distortions, it might be more serious.
By thy way, if you are lost and really annoyed, Officina Stellare can also collimate your scope, it's about 500 euros or something, I have a contact there if you need an email but that's only if you can't figure it out.
I personally look at Tilt like backfocus on a reducer/corrector if the stars are pointing towards the inside you need more space, if they are rotating along the center axis you need less space in the corner, you need to move 2 parts at a time, top, left, right or bottom or even diagonally (That be harder) the lock screws have to be unlocked for all 4 corners, as you move a corner it might affect the others but with a good view of what you are doing it will take a few hours to get it right. This is all given that you have perfect collimation of the primary and corrector plate.
I can ask my friend if he can do a zoom with you and discuss this hotech advanced collimation aid (he uses it but it annoys him quite a bit).
thanks,
ioan
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I also have an Optec Leo. Without a spacer between it and the rear cell of the scope you cannot get to the tilt adjustment screws.
Peter
Using Hocus Focus you can determine which tilt screw is moving which corner and make adjustments from the displayed image.
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Luca Bonatto at O S is quite responsive but shipping the scope would cost a fortune. It was about $300 shipping plus 200 euros for a 2 kg replacement dew shield (which did not fit.)
Peter
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Peter Bresler:
Luca Bonatto at O S is quite responsive but shipping the scope would cost a fortune. It was about $300 shipping plus 200 euros for a 2 kg replacement dew shield (which did not fit.)
Peter
The RH200 scopes are weird, made in batches, they are pretty much unique, so they might know if they had the serial number, Luca is pretty good, working with him to get the reducer for my RH200.
Jose, check out my image gallery, there's a quite a few examples of what my RH200 can do, I don't use a rotator (interesting set up you have)
here's my scope https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02wet2LKSno and there's photos of my friend collimating it
ioan
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The dew shield I received was a little too small. They no longer had one for the older model. Ultimately they gave me a refund. I made an adapter on my 3D printer. The 3D printer I bought would be capable of making the entire dew shield.
Peter
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Ioan Popa:
José Carlos Rodríguez:
I also put a photo of M17 from 07-25.
As you can see there is nowhere to take it.
can I get a high res link via google drive, or something.
Few small tips, maybe you area already doing this.
1. Always have your camera align with the for corners of the tilt plate, on the qhy 600m the screw for the desiccant should be in the middle of the scope, pointing up or down.
2. Make sure all flanges are snug but not over tight, do that with the scope pointing down so gravity can fix some of the tilt naturally.
3. Center a star and use this collimation aid http://sweiller.free.fr/collimation.html to measure the collimation of the primary.
4. If your camera is screwed into the "tilt" adapter from QHY, make sure that's not tilted by point the scope down on the mount and centering the camera in that adapter.
If the collimation is okay in the center, check the rest of the frame if you have weird stars 1/3 of the way in and more importantly different parts of the image have different star distortions, it might be more serious.
By thy way, if you are lost and really annoyed, Officina Stellare can also collimate your scope, it's about 500 euros or something, I have a contact there if you need an email but that's only if you can't figure it out.
I personally look at Tilt like backfocus on a reducer/corrector if the stars are pointing towards the inside you need more space, if they are rotating along the center axis you need less space in the corner, you need to move 2 parts at a time, top, left, right or bottom or even diagonally (That be harder) the lock screws have to be unlocked for all 4 corners, as you move a corner it might affect the others but with a good view of what you are doing it will take a few hours to get it right. This is all given that you have perfect collimation of the primary and corrector plate.
I can ask my friend if he can do a zoom with you and discuss this hotech advanced collimation aid (he uses it but it annoys him quite a bit).
thanks,
ioan
Here is the link to the photo in jpg: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-3MzizH6y010LVDkTjBtGsqwURIIyo-C/view?usp=sharing
And here, in fits: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bquE3FPkrEdkM4kCz-mXMH8V7lWsuZX6/view?usp=sharing
- I don't understand this well: "I personally look at Tilt like backfocus on a reducer/corrector if the stars are pointing towards the inside you need more space, if they are rotating along the center axis you need less space in the corner, you need to move 2 parts at a time, top, left, right or bottom or even diagonally (That be harder) the lock screws have to be unlocked for all 4 corners, as you move a corner it might affect the others but with a good view of what you are doing it will take a few hours to get it right. This is all given that you have perfect collimation of the primary and corrector plate."
[i][/i]
- "I can ask my friend if he can do a zoom with you and discuss this hotech advanced collimation aid (he uses it but it annoys him quite a bit)."
- [i] [/i]For now it is not necessary to bother your friend, I am not fluent enough in English to zoom in on him, unless he speaks Spanish.
 - Just ask him which tool he prefers to collimate.
Many thanks for everything. This is a great help to me.
All the best
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Peter Bresler:
I also have an Optec Leo. Without a spacer between it and the rear cell of the scope you cannot get to the tilt adjustment screws.
Peter
Using Hocus Focus you can determine which tilt screw is moving which corner and make adjustments from the displayed image.
Thanks, I'll try it
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Ioan Popa:
Peter Bresler:
Luca Bonatto at O S is quite responsive but shipping the scope would cost a fortune. It was about $300 shipping plus 200 euros for a 2 kg replacement dew shield (which did not fit.)
Peter
The RH200 scopes are weird, made in batches, they are pretty much unique, so they might know if they had the serial number, Luca is pretty good, working with him to get the reducer for my RH200.
Jose, check out my image gallery, there's a quite a few examples of what my RH200 can do, I don't use a rotator (interesting set up you have)
here's my scope https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02wet2LKSno and there's photos of my friend collimating it
ioan
I've been watching the video. Very interesting. Excellent job with the nebula.
But as I have put in the comment of the video, what I don't know very well is how you can get to the collimation and inclination screws with the ESATTO. Doesn't everything block you?
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José Carlos Rodríguez:
Ioan Popa:
Peter Bresler:
Luca Bonatto at O S is quite responsive but shipping the scope would cost a fortune. It was about $300 shipping plus 200 euros for a 2 kg replacement dew shield (which did not fit.)
Peter
The RH200 scopes are weird, made in batches, they are pretty much unique, so they might know if they had the serial number, Luca is pretty good, working with him to get the reducer for my RH200.
Jose, check out my image gallery, there's a quite a few examples of what my RH200 can do, I don't use a rotator (interesting set up you have)
here's my scope https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02wet2LKSno and there's photos of my friend collimating it
ioan
I've been watching the video. Very interesting. Excellent job with the nebula.
But as I have put in the comment of the video, what I don't know very well is how you can get to the collimation and inclination screws with the ESATTO. Doesn't everything block you?
short hex keys https://www.amazon.com/NordWolf-9-Piece-Metric-Stubby-Wrench/dp/B0BL6KRPS3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=X4TNCLH4DUMJ&keywords=stubby+hex+keys&qid=1690406078&sprefix=stubb+hex+keys%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 they fit well, between the esatto and the tilt plate
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Hello.
I have been using the Hotech for a few days, and although with the configuration I have, I can only reach 3 of the 4 tilt screws, I have managed to improve the image a lot.
I am now waiting on a PreciseParts part to fit between the RH200 and the LEO focuser. 15 mm thick, which is what it had as a margin before the wheel. I hope that with that separation and with the ultra-short allen keys that you indicated, I can reach the 4 screws of the inclination plate and finish correcting it.
What I have noticed is that when I change the meridian and go from East to West, the image is much worse. Do you have any idea why?
Attached photos.
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This is my setup, I also am dealing with tilt or collimation issues now. One corner is out of focus....I am only adjusting tilt. I may need to live with it.
Peter
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José Carlos Rodríguez:
Hello.
I have been using the Hotech for a few days, and although with the configuration I have, I can only reach 3 of the 4 tilt screws, I have managed to improve the image a lot.
I am now waiting on a PreciseParts part to fit between the RH200 and the LEO focuser. 15 mm thick, which is what it had as a margin before the wheel. I hope that with that separation and with the ultra-short allen keys that you indicated, I can reach the 4 screws of the inclination plate and finish correcting it.
What I have noticed is that when I change the meridian and go from East to West, the image is much worse. Do you have any idea why?
Attached photos.
We need a high res photos, 1x1 20-30subs with a Luminance or no filter, small ha images don't say anything, hard to see any star shapes
José Carlos Rodríguez:
Hello.
I have been using the Hotech for a few days, and although with the configuration I have, I can only reach 3 of the 4 tilt screws, I have managed to improve the image a lot.
I am now waiting on a PreciseParts part to fit between the RH200 and the LEO focuser. 15 mm thick, which is what it had as a margin before the wheel. I hope that with that separation and with the ultra-short allen keys that you indicated, I can reach the 4 screws of the inclination plate and finish correcting it.
What I have noticed is that when I change the meridian and go from East to West, the image is much worse. Do you have any idea why?
Attached photos.
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Peter Bresler:
This is my setup, I also am dealing with tilt or collimation issues now. One corner is out of focus....I am only adjusting tilt. I may need to live with it.
Peter
Peter, your place is tilte pretty badly, you can see that the bottom of the scope is much close vs the top, you need to reset the mechanical position
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Ioan Popa:
José Carlos Rodríguez:
Hello.
I have been using the Hotech for a few days, and although with the configuration I have, I can only reach 3 of the 4 tilt screws, I have managed to improve the image a lot.
I am now waiting on a PreciseParts part to fit between the RH200 and the LEO focuser. 15 mm thick, which is what it had as a margin before the wheel. I hope that with that separation and with the ultra-short allen keys that you indicated, I can reach the 4 screws of the inclination plate and finish correcting it.
What I have noticed is that when I change the meridian and go from East to West, the image is much worse. Do you have any idea why?
Attached photos.
We need a high res photos, 1x1 20-30subs with a Luminance or no filter, small ha images don't say anything, hard to see any star shapes
José Carlos Rodríguez:
Hello.
I have been using the Hotech for a few days, and although with the configuration I have, I can only reach 3 of the 4 tilt screws, I have managed to improve the image a lot.
I am now waiting on a PreciseParts part to fit between the RH200 and the LEO focuser. 15 mm thick, which is what it had as a margin before the wheel. I hope that with that separation and with the ultra-short allen keys that you indicated, I can reach the 4 screws of the inclination plate and finish correcting it.
What I have noticed is that when I change the meridian and go from East to West, the image is much worse. Do you have any idea why?
Attached photos.
Hello.
I put the links to the 2 photos
https://drive.google.com/file/d/194Z_M6qkIl8kZJb40UxNoyIiBBDNaNV6/view?usp=sh
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F17T9EDDBB3McRaUptZvXXHdXb4oi-mc/view?usp=sharing
thank you
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