What is the sharpest <300mm focal lenght telescope/lens ? Generic equipment discussions · Luka Poropat · ... · 40 · 1738 · 9

Dark_Dust 1.43
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Luka Poropat:
Karl Theberge:
but I am quite familiar with rude poeple and you, my dear, do not invite to discussion at all.

My intention wasn't to be rude, but to ensure accuracy in our discussion. Precision matters in technical matters like this. If there's a mistake, it's important to correct it for the sake of clarity and understanding.

*Well, the wording used was quite rude in my humble opinion.  

I understand than technical matter need correctness... but the wording here was the only thing sharper than the telescope you are looking for.

Cheers

K
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MaksPower 0.00
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Probably this. 

https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/instruments/telescopes/tec/tec-300vt-houghthon-terebizh-telescope.html
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Rustyd100 4.26
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All of the telescopes listed are likely able to bench-resolve far more detail than real conditions will allow, so choose one that fits other criterion that is important to you...like enough back focus to add accessories, or reviews of the ease of focusing, or the lowest LCA, or corner-to-corner sharpness.

Anything under 100mm would be ultimately limited by seeing and the physics of aperture. Despite that, I get pretty small stars with the WO GT71 with reducer/flattener. It's the perfect size to produce impressive imagery quickly (f4.8 with flattener), and yet be over-the-shoulder portable.

Doubling the light-gathering by selecting something over 100mm would make amazing stars. But 1.5X the length and double the weight.
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Eteocles 2.71
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Sharpness is just one consideration. The Rokinon 135 has a good reputation for sharpness, but many copies suffer from other optical issues, ones that can’t even be patched up with AI or even by adjusting the iris.
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Eteocles 2.71
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OgetayKayali 0.90
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I own RedCat51 because I could not find any, significantly better answer to this question that is also a convenient solution. Despite the initial reviews, I'm still quite curious about the Pleiades though. If there is no perfection, a faster scope might be more convenient, at least for me.
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AstroLux 7.33
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Dan:
Sharpness is just one consideration. The Rokinon 135 has a good reputation for sharpness, but many copies suffer from other optical issues, ones that can’t even be patched up with AI or even by adjusting the iris.

Even the best Rokinon/Samyang copy cannot compare to some other optics. It has its flaws but its not great great on the level im writing this forum topic for.
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AstroLux 7.33
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Can we consider a Sigma 105 F/1,4 ART in this lineup ?
There are few people here that use it with various cameras and various apertures, from fully wide open to F2.8 where most deem it optically perfect.
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Eteocles 2.71
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Luka Poropat:
Can we consider a Sigma 105 F/1,4 ART in this lineup ?
There are few people here that use it with various cameras and various apertures, from fully wide open to F2.8 where most deem it optically perfect.

I have one and would not put it in a list of sharpest lenses. I think a Redcat 51 is definitely sharper, even a bad copy. The real selling point of the Sigma art is its super wide FOV and relatively wide aperture.
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hbastro
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Luka Poropat:
Jure Menart:
Luka Poropat:
andrea tasselli:
Luka Poropat:
I think you have been doing your math completely wrong, also from seeing that in your image description. To calculate for instance seeing or the resolution you are imaging at its FWHM x pixel scale in that image above its FWHM of 4.9", which for a sampling of 2.63"/px gives you a 12.887 
When your scopes optical fwhm is like 1/4th your observed FWHM, your FWHM is accurate to the true seeing within like a percent.
Supposing there arent any significant tracking errors.


FWHM is expressed in pixels so it is 4.7". Don't where you picked up your numbers.

I picked it up directly from your description. Where you clearly state : median FWHM is 4.9" with a sampling of 2.62"/px yields a total 1.8px which is inherently wrong because you did the math wrong, it should be the other way around 4.9x2.62=12.8Image description NIKON 300MM F2.8.JPG

You should clearly check your math again

Think of it in more logical way: with each pixel you catch 2.62", seeing is 4.9" - so how many pixels you need to cover 4.9"?

Is it 12.8 pixels or less then 2 pixels?

Median FWHM of 4.9" is measured on a stacked image in a FWHME Eccentricity tool in PixInsight or a similar tool in another software and this number is not the seeing. The "seeing" is calculated by multiplying that Median FWHM with the resolution/sampling (calculated from pixel size on a camera and focal lenght of the telescope/lens).  

And just by measuring the jpeg on astrobin (which is not correct but as an example) his Median FWHM is 2,509px and multiplying that with his sampling of 2,59"/px its 6,5 which is still not even near the crazy 1.8 or 1.6 values Andrea is talking about. 

Median FWHM.JPG

Plenty of logical errors here... Check your units...
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Supro 3.81
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I'd love to hear any new ideas on this one since I've been searching for a bit. I've tried a few now and can offer some comments on each as I've been trying them out with asi6200mm (but unlikely to be conclusive). I haven't gone too far adjusting them for tilt yet. Mostly looking to eliminate them when I find too many issues. It's sort of chronological
  • Redcat 51 - I bought this awhile back and it's a solid performer. The illumination drop in the corners looks to be 60-70% though judging from the flats, but there's very little astigmatism I can find.
  • Rokinon 135 - I haven't actually tested this one on the full frame sensor, but performed ok on the 2600mc. I say "ok" because I had to stop it down to ~F4 before I could get decent stars in the edges of the aps-c. That said, it's lightweight and it's well supported in the accessory community (designing new rings for each of these gets painful eventually)
  • Sigma 105 f1.4 ART DG HSM - I tried this beast on a recommendation. There's a lot to like about the lens. It pours light in @F1.4 and almost completely covered the full frame sensor in 10s Lum exposures. Unfortunately I had to stop it down past F4 to control the astigmatism. I ended up returning this one, maybe it was a bad copy?
  • Zeiss Milvus 135 F2 - Having been dissappointed on the Sigma, I found a great deal on this lens. Going off reputation, you'd think it was the holy grail or something. The Zeiss's are at least nice that they have mostly manual focus and aperture control (the sigma was a little annoying to adjust aperture). I tested this and it was actually really good. Full out, the illumination was solid across the frame. at F2 there were certainly artifacts, but the at F4 they were gone completely except in one corner. (and there it was minimal). The most difficult part of this lens was mounting it. I had to get little jacksony pollock in order to provider a sturdy hold for it since the outer shell of the body moves while focusing. Tilt and backfocus definitely need adjusting though, so i'm still battling through that since most of the adapters seem to expect it'll be fine and don't leave room for adjusters.
  • Nikkor 300mm F2.8 ED VR I - I bought this one recently. It's slightly older (~2009). It's huge and at 300mm, the field is a bit narrower. That said, it performed pretty well over the whole field once I got to F4.5.
  • Nikkor 180 f2.8 ED - yet to try


At this point, my expectations are significantly lower but i'm still progressing. I keep enquiring on the Pleiades68 because it really looks good, but I hear from multiple sources that there's been some issues. 

For the above, I'm happy to share some of the raw fits if y'all want to pixel peep for yourselves. Just let me know. 

If someone has direct experience with another lens that fits the criteria, I'd love to hear it 
  • Focal length 130-230ish
  • larger first element (~85mm +)
  • can produce astimatism free (or close) stars across a full frame at <F4
  • costs less than $2k
  • ideally allows for connecting with some means of backfocus and tilt correction (most adapters make this challenging)
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minyita 1.81
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Hi, I have a Canon EF 200m f/2.8L and I wouldn't recommend it if you aren't willing to fix starshapes in post processing. Straight out of the box and wide open it has horrible, horrible star shapes, at least my copy, stepped down to f/3.2 it still has issues, never tried it on f/4 but we are reaching slowish terrain there. I use it with my 183MC Pro and my starshape in the NGC 7000 on my profile was nightmare fuel before a run of BlurX with Correct only. If you're willing to do this, it can produce reasonable results tho, for very little money. I think the opening is 82mm wide open.

Here is my only Shot as a non beginner with it: click
I'll use it again this summer most likely, but probably stepped down to f4.
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AstroLux 7.33
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Dave Erickson:
Plenty of logical errors here... Check your units...


Do enlighten me...
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AstroLux 7.33
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Mina m.b.:
. Straight out of the box and wide open it has horrible, horrible star shapes, at least my copy, stepped down to f/3.2 it still has issues, never tried it on f/4 but we are reaching slowish terrain there.


I had the same experience with mine, at F/4 it behaved good (example here: Canon 200 @F4) and F/5 it was great, unfortunately as you say thats reaching the slow territory and no point in buying a lens then, better opt in for a proper telescope.
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RichardGifford 0.00
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Is the Canon 300mm f2.8 suitable?

I've used one for M42, M31 and m45 with reasonable results.

Not sure how it would perform with small pixels though.

Regards
Richard
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Supro 3.81
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at this point, I'm still hopeful the Zeiss lens is workable. (provided I figure out a way to deal with tilt)

The only upside I can really see for a lens 200+mm in FL, is being compact. (not really even lighter than some of the new scopes) But if they all need to be stopped down to F4+, I can't see the advantage. 

For 180mm wider, I think it's still viable. (probably why the Rokinon is popular)
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