Stars with tails - tilt issue? *help* Generic equipment discussions · Buyman3375 · ... · 50 · 855 · 19

andreatax 7.80
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Buyman3375:
Well...

This is where I fear I am going to lose you. Because of my incompentence. The first mirror was only glued to the stalk with a silicone from the inside of the of the stalk, not underneath where it touches the mirror, nor on the outside.

When I wanted to fix it in place, I played with a glue gun on an example first and realized that the dew heater would soften the glue and I feared that it might loosen during the heating outside and fall into the tube. Out of fear, I had the "great" idea to glue it with 3 different silicones. I used one for the direct contact to the mirror, one for the inside of the stalk to the mirror and one on the outside of the stalk. It doesn't look terrible and I did a good job at keeping it at a minimum. But I am slowly having this creeping feeling, that this might have caused my dilemma... Please tell me it can't be...


Well, it might or might not be an issue. If you can manage to send a picture that would help a lot...
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andreatax 7.80
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Buyman3375:
I will try that tonight.

I'm located in PA and my temperature ranges nowadays from  25F - 50F degrees. During the day, we recently had it all the way up to 72F. And when I'm not storing it in the open shed, due to rain, wind or snow, I have it outside at the sme spot - under Telegizmo's!


CT scopes have 3 fans behind the primary mirror cell, Have you tried using them at all? Have you tried see what happens when they are running?

Pretty cold in PA, btw...
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Buyman 0.00
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andrea tasselli:
Buyman3375:
I will try that tonight.

I'm located in PA and my temperature ranges nowadays from  25F - 50F degrees. During the day, we recently had it all the way up to 72F. And when I'm not storing it in the open shed, due to rain, wind or snow, I have it outside at the sme spot - under Telegizmo's!


CT scopes have 3 fans behind the primary mirror cell, Have you tried using them at all? Have you tried see what happens when they are running?

Pretty cold in PA, btw...

*lol* - Yes, it is pretty cold. I was going to setup the rig just now and the clouds came in. Forecast all of for sudden stated "possible snow". Really...?! The only good thing about cold: no thermal flickering in the air - or whatever you call that.

Anyways - yes, I am running the fans at all times. I was just not sure if that would be enough - ergo, the dew heater folly.
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Buyman 0.00
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So, after replacing my OEM focuser with a Baader Diamond Steeltrack (the old one was too lose), repositioning the spider and tuning it all with an Ocal collimator, I can say that I'm defenitely on the right track to get my issue resolved.

I'm not quite done yet, as you can tell by the in- and out of focuse stars below. But my recent imaging sessions have provided me with results I can actually work with - again.

Once I have another clear night, I hope I'll have it all straightened out for good. A little bit more fine tuning on the collimation and that should be it. I went from star sizes of 8, back down to 4. I really would like to go back to at least 3, but anything lower seems to be a pipedream and reserved for refractors.  *sigh*

Thanks for everyone who was helping me troubleshooting. Much appreciated!!

Preview_Sirius_20.0ms_Bin1_2600MC_gain100_20240321-200829_-3.3F.jpgPreview_Sirius_20.0ms_Bin1_2600MC_gain100_20240321-200652_-4.0F.jpg
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smcx 2.71
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Do you have any spacers in your imaging train?
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andreatax 7.80
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Buyman3375:
So, after replacing my OEM focuser with a Baader Diamond Steeltrack (the old one was too lose), repositioning the spider and tuning it all with an Ocal collimator, I can say that I'm defenitely on the right track to get my issue resolved.

I'm not quite done yet, as you can tell by the in- and out of focuse stars below. But my recent imaging sessions have provided me with results I can actually work with - again.

Once I have another clear night, I hope I'll have it all straightened out for good. A little bit more fine tuning on the collimation and that should be it. I went from star sizes of 8, back down to 4. I really would like to go back to at least 3, but anything lower seems to be a pipedream and reserved for refractors.  *sigh*

Thanks for everyone who was helping me troubleshooting. Much appreciated!!

Preview_Sirius_20.0ms_Bin1_2600MC_gain100_20240321-200829_-3.3F.jpgPreview_Sirius_20.0ms_Bin1_2600MC_gain100_20240321-200652_-4.0F.jpg

Now it seems a collimation is a bit off and I am afraid your Ocal gizmo isn't going to help here.
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Buyman 0.00
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Sean Mc:
Do you have any spacers in your imaging train?

Yes. The required 55mm backfocus for my Starizona Nexus. Why are you asking?
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Buyman 0.00
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andrea tasselli:
Buyman3375:
So, after replacing my OEM focuser with a Baader Diamond Steeltrack (the old one was too lose), repositioning the spider and tuning it all with an Ocal collimator, I can say that I'm defenitely on the right track to get my issue resolved.

I'm not quite done yet, as you can tell by the in- and out of focuse stars below. But my recent imaging sessions have provided me with results I can actually work with - again.

Once I have another clear night, I hope I'll have it all straightened out for good. A little bit more fine tuning on the collimation and that should be it. I went from star sizes of 8, back down to 4. I really would like to go back to at least 3, but anything lower seems to be a pipedream and reserved for refractors.  *sigh*

Thanks for everyone who was helping me troubleshooting. Much appreciated!!

Preview_Sirius_20.0ms_Bin1_2600MC_gain100_20240321-200829_-3.3F.jpgPreview_Sirius_20.0ms_Bin1_2600MC_gain100_20240321-200652_-4.0F.jpg

Now it seems a collimation is a bit off and I am afraid your Ocal gizmo isn't going to help here.

Indeed. I tried to collimate it first with my Concenter, but then tried to refine it with my Hotech collimator. Guess the laser jinxed it...
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smcx 2.71
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I posted a new thread for my issue lest night. It almost seems similar. 
I don’t know, but maybe a spacer is at fault?

¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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andreatax 7.80
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Laser is only good for a secondary centering on the primary (and coarse primary collimation). Beyond  that is either autocollimator or star test.
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Buyman 0.00
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andrea tasselli:
Laser is only good for a secondary centering on the primary (and coarse primary collimation). Beyond  that is either autocollimator or star test.

Autocollimator...?  *yikes*  I just noticed the price tag on those. I guess I will give the star collimation a try. I honestly have to admit, that I have never collimated my rig with the start test before. But right now, I'm open to any recommendation getting a better focus. Thanks for that!
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andreatax 7.80
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I don't know, still cheaper than the competition...

Farpoint 2 Inch Autocollimator – FarpointAstro
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Buyman 0.00
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andrea tasselli:
I don't know, still cheaper than the competition...

Farpoint 2 Inch Autocollimator – FarpointAstro

*wow* I had no idea they could be this cheap. I would've paid more, but the ones I found were in the thousands. Nevertheless, thank you very much for this link. I guess I'm going to hunt this one down..!

Btw - you're a treasure to this forum. Thanks for everything you do!
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Buyman 0.00
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Buyman3375:
andrea tasselli:
I don't know, still cheaper than the competition...

Farpoint 2 Inch Autocollimator – FarpointAstro

*wow* I had no idea they could be this cheap. I would've paid more, but the ones I found were in the thousands. Nevertheless, thank you very much for this link. I guess I'm going to hunt this one down..!

Btw - you're a treasure to this forum. Thanks for everything you do!

Addon question:

How does the "auto" collimator (In this case, the Farpoint 2) differ from the Concenter I have?
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andreatax 7.80
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The autocollimator works on different principles and the aim is reached by aligning the multiple reflections of the center marker (off the mirror in the autocollimator) of the primary onto themselves, so its accuracy is unsurpassed for a fast system such as yours. And mine, since that is what I use.
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Buyman 0.00
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andrea tasselli:
The autocollimator works on different principles and the aim is reached by aligning the multiple reflections of the center marker (off the mirror in the autocollimator) of the primary onto themselves, so its accuracy is unsurpassed for a fast system such as yours. And mine, since that is what I use.

That makes sense. I didn't think of the multiple reflections. Sometimes, I should use my brain first before opening my mouth.

Once more: Thanks a bunch!
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Buyman 0.00
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Buyman3375:
andrea tasselli:
The autocollimator works on different principles and the aim is reached by aligning the multiple reflections of the center marker (off the mirror in the autocollimator) of the primary onto themselves, so its accuracy is unsurpassed for a fast system such as yours. And mine, since that is what I use.

That makes sense. I didn't think of the multiple reflections. Sometimes, I should use my brain first before opening my mouth.

Once more: Thanks a bunch!

Just scoured the internet - seems to be "unobtanium". Any idea where to retrieve one?
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andreatax 7.80
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Sadly, no.  You can try your luck with the more expensive (but very good!) ones:
CATSEYE Collimation Main Page Frameset File
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Buyman 0.00
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andrea tasselli:
Sadly, no.  You can try your luck with the more expensive (but very good!) ones:
CATSEYE Collimation Main Page Frameset File

Ok, I might bite the bullet and go with the catseye. But I have a couple questions regarding the catseye, if you don't mind.

1. There are different lenghts available. Why, and does it matter which one? Or is there a preferred one?
2. The instructions and even Youtube videos all refer to the triangle on the primary mirror. But I have only a circle.
    Does this matter, or can I collimate the scope just as good? I can see why a triangle could be more precise...

Thanks in advance!

Chris
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andreatax 7.80
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The length depends on the distance between the flange of the focuser and the sensor, in your case 55mm. You can get the cheaper one and add spacers to achieve the same effect.

The triangle marker (which I also have) is only helpful if you can illuminate it and it is invaluable if you were to collimate in the dark with a strong illumination source. In bright daylight isn't that an advantage but you can score brownie points if you have one!
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Buyman 0.00
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andrea tasselli:
The length depends on the distance between the flange of the focuser and the sensor, in your case 55mm. You can get the cheaper one and add spacers to achieve the same effect.

The triangle marker (which I also have) is only helpful if you can illuminate it and it is invaluable if you were to collimate in the dark with a strong illumination source. In bright daylight isn't that an advantage but you can score brownie points if you have one!

So I did it. After reading up on more reviews and recommendations everywhere, I got even more excited and ordered one. And I went with your suggestion of the short one, since I have several spacers available. Do you know what kind of thread (42, 48,...) the catseye has? And I'm assuming it's "under" the knurled ring on the top, right?
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andreatax 7.80
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As far as I know, there is no thread.
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Buyman 0.00
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andrea tasselli:
As far as I know, there is no thread.

Sorry, but I'm not quite sure I understand. You mentioned the 55mm backfocus I need. I thought it could be covered with additional spacers. All my spacers are threaded and usually are, as far as I know. What kind of spacers, or how do you propose I solve the backfocus issue if the catseye doesn't have a thread? Maybe I don't see the tree because I'm in the middle of a forest...
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andreatax 7.80
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There exist what are known as focus extenders (actually they should be supplied with the focuser). The fit into a 2" clamp flange and  allows to reach focus further from the maximum focuser travel position. You would normally mark or leave the focuser at its position when in focus and add those 55 of extension. Any 2" tube section can in fact be used for the same purpose as long as the ends are parallel to each other.

As examples (the last one is probably the better one so anything close to that, with 2" extension and adding a couple of parafocal rings should do the trick):

2inch Telescope Eyepiece Focusing Device Extension Tube for Astronomical | eBay

Astro Essentials 2" 35mm Focus Extension Tube | First Light Optics
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Buyman 0.00
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andrea tasselli:
There exist what are known as focus extenders (actually they should be supplied with the focuser). The fit into a 2" clamp flange and  allows to reach focus further from the maximum focuser travel position. You would normally mark or leave the focuser at its position when in focus and add those 55 of extension. Any 2" tube section can in fact be used for the same purpose as long as the ends are parallel to each other.

As examples (the last one is probably the better one so anything close to that, with 2" extension and adding a couple of parafocal rings should do the trick):

2inch Telescope Eyepiece Focusing Device Extension Tube for Astronomical | eBay

Astro Essentials 2" 35mm Focus Extension Tube | First Light Optics

Thanks for that.

My setup is a little bit more complicated. Remember I told you I couldn't create the in-focus star image because I was too close to the minimum. Well, I took the Starizona Nexus and removed the stopping ring, to enable me to push it further into the tube. That said, Should I keep the focuser distance and just measure the remaining outside distance, plus the setback from the camera sensor and add these as backfocus I need, or should I rather bring the focuser all the way in and get a 55mm piece instead? I think the latter would be better...
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