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I am quickly getting into the deep end of the pool. I bought an SVX152t a few months ago - reduced images are fine, but with the flattener @1200mm realize I need to track via OAG, which has set me into thinking thru options. I read an article somewhere that suggested 'buy the OAG that is from the same company as your camera (ASI 2600MC). I believe the same mfgr will make it easer to hook all the pieces together. Now, I am tempted by the ZWO package of the 2600MM with the OAG, filter wheel and 7 36mm filters. Mono is inevitable, but can get very pricey. Any serious 'don't get the ZWO filters, they are disappointing' warnings? This would be the only path possible right now to get all 7 filters (and the package of OAG, filter wheel, 7 filters + camera is tempting). Options might be just get LBGR of, say, Antila 36mm and hold off on the Ha/OIII/SI. Thanks, Chuck
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Hi Chuck
It does make sense to get the same hardware (camera, filter wheel, OAG) from the same manufacturer as they are pretty much designed to all fit together.
Filters... well... one can get into religious wars over filters, and you do have to be careful - less expensive filters can cast halos around brighter stars. Top of the line Chromas are arguably the best, but they are pricey. Astronomik are decent, but they are thinner than most and usually require an O-ring to hold them in place properly. I have no experience with ZWO filters, or iOptron filters. It might be nice to hear from someone who owns these to see what their experience is.
Another consideration is backfocus. I also own a Stellarvue (SVT140), and backfocus can be an issue with a flattener in place. It will depend if you have the full frame flattener or the smaller - a call to Vic at Stellarvue can assist with that. Since I shoot with an APS-C sized sensor (the ZWO 2600MM) and use the smaller flattener, I have 106mm of backfocus to play with so I can get all that plus a field rotator in the image train.
Regarding filters... since you are using a CMOS camera there is no benefit to binning pixels (other than to reduce file size), so you really do not need a luminance filter. I would go with RGB+Ha to start. If you need a luminance it is easy to create a synthetic luminance from the RGB exposures.
Regards
Frank
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Hi Chuck,
If you are not married to ZWO you could consider the QHY268M based on the same chip, but quite a bit more affordable. And also offers the option of various readout modes. Maybe this would free up some budget for filters.
CS,
Sean
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Frank, I use the SFFX-1 flattener that I got with the 102T - Vic adjusted the adapter to work with the 152. I am not sure how much back focus this can work with, but from your note, it appears it is in the longer range. I will drop Vic a note - he's very responsive. Thanks.
Sean, my buddy has the QHY 268C, and I thought it was a better camera than my ASI. Now that you mention it, I could indeed build a QHY-based 268M rig with the MM/OAG/Filter Wheel - but I just looked at their site, it seems the camera (on sale now) is still a little more expensive than the ASI. So while it doesn't seem less costly, it is equal in price (essentially) with this sale, so that's a real option.
Thanks both,
Chuck
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Hi there
I am happy to read the upcoming posts.
Cheers and clear skies
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Hi,
There is also the possibility of the dual sensor version with the ASI 2600 (C and M) which avoids OAG, one sensor as a guide and the other for capture.
Personally, I preferred the Player One option (Poseidon IMX571 mono) with the OAG and 7x36 filter wheel. The backfocus is 55mm in this optical train.
Filters: I have had the ZWO ones (I don't like them), the Baader ones (acceptable) but I prefer the Astronomik . I have never had to supplement anything in the 36mm neither in ZWO or Player One filter wheel.
The sensations that Player One products convey are very pleasant, from packaging, shipping, functionality and compatibility with all apps to support.
Regards,
César
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Chuck Schreiner:
I am quickly getting into the deep end of the pool. I bought an SVX152t a few months ago - reduced images are fine, but with the flattener @1200mm realize I need to track via OAG, which has set me into thinking thru options. I read an article somewhere that suggested 'buy the OAG that is from the same company as your camera (ASI 2600MC). I believe the same mfgr will make it easer to hook all the pieces together. Now, I am tempted by the ZWO package of the 2600MM with the OAG, filter wheel and 7 36mm filters. Mono is inevitable, but can get very pricey. Any serious 'don't get the ZWO filters, they are disappointing' warnings? This would be the only path possible right now to get all 7 filters (and the package of OAG, filter wheel, 7 filters + camera is tempting). Options might be just get LBGR of, say, Antila 36mm and hold off on the Ha/OIII/SI. Thanks, Chuck
Hi Chuck,
I ended up with that ZWO package, even though I went in step by step.
Regarding the filters I am happy but have no comparison, so judge by my NB images yourself, taking into account that I am still in the processing learning curve which might be my bigger issue than filters.
Before getting the OAG-L (for its larger M48 diameter and its Helix focusser) I had an TS Optics OAG, which really sucked.
Regarding the hardware components:
- Do get the OAG-L for more diameter and larger prism to adress larger guide cam chips like the 220mm
- the backfocus of the 2600 + plus EFW and OAG-L add up perfectly up to 55m, once you follow the instruction and remove the tilt ring on the camera as there is one on the OAG if I recall right
- the holes for the screws are set so that the prism sits nicely in the long end of the chip rectangle, so I never had shadows on my images (Unlike TS-Optics OAG)
- the prism can be moved very easily and accurately up and down locked well by one single screw (TS Optics had 4 screws that were hard to access)
- the helix focus on the OAG-L for the guide cam works really nice and can be locked
- as the combination is quite snuck and all linked with tiny screws, better leave the image train completely assembled
- same applies if you want to clean the filters: you leave the OAG-L on the filter top and just lift the EFW cover to access the filters
Alltogether I am very happy with the setup!
Arny
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Arny:
Chuck Schreiner:
I am quickly getting into the deep end of the pool. I bought an SVX152t a few months ago - reduced images are fine, but with the flattener @1200mm realize I need to track via OAG, which has set me into thinking thru options. I read an article somewhere that suggested 'buy the OAG that is from the same company as your camera (ASI 2600MC). I believe the same mfgr will make it easer to hook all the pieces together. Now, I am tempted by the ZWO package of the 2600MM with the OAG, filter wheel and 7 36mm filters. Mono is inevitable, but can get very pricey. Any serious 'don't get the ZWO filters, they are disappointing' warnings? This would be the only path possible right now to get all 7 filters (and the package of OAG, filter wheel, 7 filters + camera is tempting). Options might be just get LBGR of, say, Antila 36mm and hold off on the Ha/OIII/SI. Thanks, Chuck
Hi Chuck,
I ended up with taht ZWO package, even though I went in step by step.
Regarding the filters I am happy but have no comparison, so judge by my NB images yourself, taking into account that I am still in the processing learning curve which might be my bigger issue than filters.
Before getting the OAG-L (for its larger M48 diameter and its Helix focusser) I had an TS Optics OAG, which really sucked.
Regarding the hardware components:
- Do get the OAG-L for more diameter and larger prism to adress larger guide cam chips like the 220mm
- the backfocus of the 2600 + plus EFW and OAG-L add up perfectly up to 55m, once you follow the instruction and remove the tilt ring on the camera as there is one on the OAG if I recall right
- the holes for the screws are set so that the prism sits nicely in long end of the chip rectangle so I never have shadows on my images (Unlike TS-Optics OAG)
- the prism can be move very easily and accurately up and down lockd by one screw (TS Optics had 4 screws that were hard to access)
- the helix focus on the OAG-L for the guide cam works really nice and can be locked
- as the combination is quite snuck and all linked with tiny screws, so leave the image train complete
- same applies if you want to clean the filters: you leave the OAG-L on the filter top and just lift the EFW cover to access the filters
Alltogether I very happy with the setup!
Arny
Arny,
I have been considering the jump to mono, if I do then it really has to be with a 571 sensor camera and the budget is super tight so the ZWO filters are on my list of possibles. Along with Player One Camera and wheel. I have been looking at your super images and I have to ask - your Flame and Horsehead image... Did you have problems with halos / reflections at all?
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Arny:
Chuck Schreiner:
I am quickly getting into the deep end of the pool. I bought an SVX152t a few months ago - reduced images are fine, but with the flattener @1200mm realize I need to track via OAG, which has set me into thinking thru options. I read an article somewhere that suggested 'buy the OAG that is from the same company as your camera (ASI 2600MC). I believe the same mfgr will make it easer to hook all the pieces together. Now, I am tempted by the ZWO package of the 2600MM with the OAG, filter wheel and 7 36mm filters. Mono is inevitable, but can get very pricey. Any serious 'don't get the ZWO filters, they are disappointing' warnings? This would be the only path possible right now to get all 7 filters (and the package of OAG, filter wheel, 7 filters + camera is tempting). Options might be just get LBGR of, say, Antila 36mm and hold off on the Ha/OIII/SI. Thanks, Chuck
Hi Chuck,
I ended up with taht ZWO package, even though I went in step by step.
Regarding the filters I am happy but have no comparison, so judge by my NB images yourself, taking into account that I am still in the processing learning curve which might be my bigger issue than filters.
Before getting the OAG-L (for its larger M48 diameter and its Helix focusser) I had an TS Optics OAG, which really sucked.
Regarding the hardware components:
- Do get the OAG-L for more diameter and larger prism to adress larger guide cam chips like the 220mm
- the backfocus of the 2600 + plus EFW and OAG-L add up perfectly up to 55m, once you follow the instruction and remove the tilt ring on the camera as there is one on the OAG if I recall right
- the holes for the screws are set so that the prism sits nicely in long end of the chip rectangle so I never have shadows on my images (Unlike TS-Optics OAG)
- the prism can be move very easily and accurately up and down lockd by one screw (TS Optics had 4 screws that were hard to access)
- the helix focus on the OAG-L for the guide cam works really nice and can be locked
- as the combination is quite snuck and all linked with tiny screws, so leave the image train complete
- same applies if you want to clean the filters: you leave the OAG-L on the filter top and just lift the EFW cover to access the filters
Alltogether I very happy with the setup!
Arny
Arny, thanks very much for that! I had planned on the OAG-L and I am also getting ASI 174mm which has a larger sensor. I am going to revisit your note when the stuff arrives this week. When I get the camera, filters depends a little on the sales of other gear, but I have decided ZWO vs any alternate routes (except for filters, which is a question still to be answered) Cheers, Chuck
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Go get OGMA, great company which provides affordable astrostuff. It is a rebranded Touptek but I dont see a problem with that. Mono kit starting at 2000$ with lots of included stuff.
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Frank Dibbell:
Filters... well... one can get into religious wars over filters, and you do have to be careful - less expensive filters can cast halos around brighter stars. Top of the line Chromas are arguably the best, but they are pricey. Astronomik are decent, but they are thinner than most and usually require an O-ring to hold them in place properly
True that. I would stay away from cheaper filters - you will live to regret buying them. I would add Astrodon (I have several sets because I am old) but they are barely available anymore since OSI/Lumicon bought them and screwed things up. Chroma are great. I am using Astronomic for my fast (Epsilon) because their MaxFR narrowband filters are tailored to that. They fit fine as long as you use something like the 3D printed retainer rings from Buckeyestargazer - and those are cheap for a set of rings (under $20).
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I have never read anything that indicates you should use the same manufacturer for your guide camera as your imaging camera and I have spent considerable time researching over the last couple of years before I finally took the plung a couple weeks ago to replace my Canon R5 with a dedicated Astrocam and decided to go mono as well. The only reason would be to stick with ZWO if you are using an ASIAIR since it won’t work with any other manufacturers Astrocams. I decided to go with an OGMA AP26MC and haven’t had any issues using it with my ZWO ASI220MM guide camera, ZWO filter wheel and NINA for my capture software. I have the ZWO 36mm LRGBSHO filter set but don’t have enough experience with them or any other filters to make any kind of recommendation.
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